The first capitals of Japan from the 3rd to 8th centuries A.D. were all established around contemporary Nara (pop. 364,000). Originally, Shinto religion imposed that the capital be moved every time an emperor passed away. In 710, the first permanent capital was founded and named Heijokyo (平城京, present-day Nara). This is capital was to last until 794, when the capital was once again moved to Heiankyo (平安京), which later became known as Kyoto.
Nara is the second most important ancient city in Japan after Kyoto. It has 5 sites listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, including the oldest wooden structure in the world (Horyuji Temple) in its vicinity. Visitors usually head directly to the Todai-ji, which houses the largest Buddha statue in Japan (the second largest being in Kamakura).
Nara has a relaxed provincial atmosphere, and deers graze peacefully in the numerous parks, or wait that tourists feed them "shika-sembe". That makes Nara a popular school-trip destination for primary school pupils.
Todai-ji Temple 東大寺
Todai-ji Temple is reputedly the largest wooden building in the world - title contested by the Higashi Hongaji temple in Kyoto. In year 743, emperor Shomu ordered the construction of a giant Buddha Vairocana statue to protect the people of epidemics and disasters so common at that time.
The 15m high and 437 tonnes "Daibutsu" (大仏) or "Great Buddha" was completed in 751 and remains one of the largest bronze statue in the world.
Although dating from the 8th century, the Daibutsu suffered several damages and reparations, so that little remains of the original. In the 9th century, an earthquake chopped its head off. Fires destroyed the temple in 1180 and again in 1567 melting the Buddha's right hand.
Kofukuji Temple 興福寺
The family temple of the influential Fujiwara family, Kofuku-ji was originally established in Kyoto in 669 to pray for the clan leader's recovery from an illness. It moved together with the capital to Heijo-kyo in 710.
At the height the the Fujiwara power, it was considered one of the 4 great temples of the Nara period (710-794), then of the 7 great temples of the Heian period (794-1185). It then consisted of about 175 buildings, but only a few of them have survived the test of time.
The most interesting are the five-story pagoda (五重塔) first built in 725 by the Empress Komyoh, then restored in 1426, and the three-storey pagoda (三重塔) constructed in 1143.
Kasuga Taisha Shrine 春日大社
Also built by the Fujiwara family in 768 at the time of Heijo-kyo, this Shinto shrine is one of the most important in Japan. In accordance with the Shinto need for purification, the shrine is destroyed and rebuilt every 20 years, like the Great Shrine of Ise.
Kasuga Taisha is situated in Nara Park, just east of Todai-ji. Approaching the shrine, the visitors will walk along a path of 3000 lanterns, 2000 of which are made of stone, and 1000 of bronze. The lantern festival is held twice a year at "Setsubun" (3 February) and "Obon" (14-15 August).
The Kasuga Matsuri or "Monkey Festival" is held on 13 March and involves Gagaku and Bugaku dance performances.
How to get there
Nara is easily accessible by train from Kyoto (40min, ￥610) or Osaka (40min, ￥780).
The nearest airport are Osaka Itami (60min by bus, ￥1,440) and Kansai International Airport (95min by bus, ￥1,800), both with flights to the major destinations within Japan and overseas.
The first capitals of Japan from the 3rd to 8th centuries A.D. were all established around contemporary Nara (