Kii Peninsula & Mountain Range 紀伊半島＆山地
The pilgrimage routes of the Kii Mountain Range in the centre of Kii Peninsula have been designated UNSECO World Heritage site in 2004. The area is important to both followers of Shinto and Buddhism.
The nominated sites are in three seprate locations : Koyasan (Wakayama), Yoshino-Omine (Nara), Kumano Sanzan (Wakayama).
The Yoshino-Kumano National Park is part of the Kii Peninsula and straddles the prefectures of Nara, Wakayama and Mie. The region is renowned for its onsen, gorges, waterfalls and sacred shrines.
Yoshino & Mount Omine 吉野＆大峰山
The region around Yoshino has been attributed mystic power, by both Buddhists and Shintoists for centuries. To the former, it is a place of retirement and meditation. For the latter, the abode of the kami (spirits of nature).
In 1333, Emperor Go-Daigo managed to topple the Kamakura Shogunate and restore Imperial power in Kyoto. But three years later, general Ashikaga Takauji turned against him and established the Ashikaga Shogunate, sending Go-Daigo into exile in the mountains of Yoshino. Go-Daigo set up a Southern Court in Yoshino, which lasted until 1392. That period of division between the Kyoto and Yoshino Courts was known as Nambokucho.
Yoshino attracts tens of thousands of sightseeers during the cherry blossom season (mid-April). Beware that accommodation is almost impossible to find at that time of the year unless you have booked several months in advance.
Visitors typically head to the Kimpu-jinja Shrine, a good hour walk up from the top of the ropeway. Other sights include the Kimpu-ji Temple (which Zao-do Hall is one of Japan's largest wooden structure), the Katte-jinja Shrine, Yoshimizu-jinja Shrine and numerous other small temples.
Mount Omine-san
Members of the Shugendo sect of Buddhism have come to Mount Omine-san at least since the Heian period tp practice their ascetic and shamanistic rites.
The whole pilgrimage route of Omine-san was prohibited to women since about 1300. The ban was not lifted until the 1960's and some particular places are still off-limit to the weaker sex.
Females were also proscribed to ascend other sacred mountains like Mount Fuji and Kyoto's Mount Heiei until 1872.
Note that the hike from Yoshino to Mt Omine is about 30km long, but you can start walking from the village of Dorogawa. To get there, use the Kintetsu Yoshino line (eg. from Kashihara-jingu-mae) to Shimoichiguchi (下市口) station, then a bus from there to Dorogawa (about 2 hours, ￥1300).
Mount Koya 高野山
Koya-san is one of the largest Buddhist monastic complex in Japan. It is the headquarters of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, founded by Kukai (Kobo Daishi).
Millions of visitors come to Koya-san each year. A visit to Mount Koya can prove a quite unique spiritual experience. Nearly 100 temples serve as shukubo (宿坊), that is to say temple lodging. They typically charge around ￥10,000 for a night with dinner and breakfast. The best time to wander around is after dark when lanterns light the hundreds of temples, or early morning during the religious service (from 6am).
Okuno-in Temple 奥の院
The Okuno-in Temple is Koysan's most emblematic temple. Its enormous cemetery contains the tombs of most of the major Buddhist figures Japan has known as well as feudal lords and other prominent personalities. Kukai's mausoleum is called the Gobyo.
Kongobu-ji Temple 金剛峰寺
This temple is the headquarters of Japan's Shingon sect of Buddhism. which presides over 4,000 temples and 10 million people. Toyotomi Hideyoshi established the temple in 1593, but the present building only date from the 19th century and has just been restored. Admission is ￥350 (summer 8am-5pm, winter 8:30am-4:30pm).
Around Koya-san
There once was as many as 1500 monasteries in Koya-san, divided between clergy (gakuryo), lay priests (gyonin) and followers of the Jodo sect of Buddhism (hijiri).
Among the some 110 temples left nowadays, the most interesting ones are part of the Danjogaran (壇上伽藍) complex, notably the Kondo (main hall), Daito (great tower), Saito (western tower) and the Miedo (Mie hall).
The Aoba Matsuri celebrating Kukai's birthday is held on 15 June. Obon's Candle Festival (Mando-Kuyoe) takes place on 13 August.
Kumano Sanzan 熊野三山
The Kumano Sanzan comprises three sacred shrines : the Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社) in Hongu, the Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野早玉大社) in Shingu and the Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社) in Nachi.
All three shrines were founded in times immemorial (Kumano Hongu Taisha first appeared in historical documents in 859), although the buildings themselves are not old nor particularily impressive.
Their historical significance or geographic location matters more to the visitors. For instance, Kumano Nachi Taisha sits next to Japan's highest waterfall, Nachi-no-otaki (133m).
The Doro-kyo Gorge, 2 hours away by boat from Shiko up the Kitayama-gawa River, is generally acclaimed as Japan's most spectacular gorge.
Hotsprings ｡・､ｨｰ
There are quite a few Onsen resorts around Hongu and Totsukawa.
Near Hongu, you will have the choice between the Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen and Watarase Onsen. Yunomine is the most popular and has several ryokan and minshuku.
Totsukawa's famous onsen are the Kamiyu Onsen (上湯温泉), Totsukawa Onsen (十津川温泉) and Tosenjo Onsen (湯泉地温泉).
How to get there
Yoshino can be accessed from Nara (1h15min, 860) or Kyoto (1h45min, 1470) on the Kintetsu line, via Kushihara-jinu-mae.
Koysan's nearesr station is Gokurakubashi, on the Nankai Koya line, either from Osaka or Nara, via Shin-Imamiya (about 1h40min, 1,650).
The Kumano Sanzan area is more difficult to reach. The town of Shingu is 3 hours 45 minutes away from Shin-Osaka station on the JR Ocean Arrow line (5,250). Buses from Shingu to Hongu take about 2 hours (2,000). Alternatively, Nara Kotsu and JR buses also go to Hongu from Gojo (13min from Yoshino-guchi on the JR Wakayama line). The road through the moutain range is very scenic but takes 5 hours (3,900).
| 
